60 days and counting.

Oh dang.

In bleaker times, some Koreans couldn't afford breakfast. This fact is evident in today's culture, as many people make inquiries regarding the contents of each other's breakfast and/or whether or not it was consumed. The typical Korean breakfast consists of kimchi, rice, and soup; sometimes with some sort of meat. Though bakeries have become many, and close between; the bakeries don't usually have doughnuts or sweets out before 9 or 10 AM. Since Korean people don't designate a specific food for breakfast, it's not surprising to see Odaeng (오뎅) boiling in it's juices at 8:15 in the morning.

61 days and counting.

Morning commute

Monday evening brought the first significant snowfall to Seoul. My shoes left fresh tracks on the Tuesday morning walk to and from the subway. By noon, most of the sidewalks had shoveled paths, cleared by business owners, Good Samaritans, or soldiers. In the days following a snowfall, the process of managing the snow and ice begins. Salt melts the snow on the roads, turning it into grimy slush. Snow piles grow as more moves around, turning to large mounds of ice. People slip and slide as they try to make their way around their daily routine. I find it tough to manage in tennis shoes, I can only wonder how the girls manage in their fancy high heels.

62 days and counting.

King of knots.

Power lines go every which way in some neighborhoods of Seoul. Small multiple family dwellings have various lines leading in from more than one pole. The cables often resemble spider webs, which span the width of alleys. Upstream from the alleys, power poles find themselves covered in a tangle of cables leading every which way. It's amazing to think the utility services know where each line leads. What's even more amazing is how this can seem normal over time.

63 days and counting.

Heaven is a place.

In the parts of Seoul where three to five story buildings still dominate the skyline, crosses advertise brightly above the rooftops from dusk to dawn. From some perspectives; three, four, even five can be counted within one line of sight. Many of these small churches are located in those same three to five story buildings which sit below the crosses. However, new churches with modern architecture and intriguing facades are springing up around the city.

64 days and counting.

Dinner's on the way.

Motorcycles and scooters are used for a many purposes in Seoul. From personal transportation, to food delivery, to package handling. Most restaurants use fearless young males on scooters to extend their dining rooms into their customer's homes. In this high paced business, hot food and hungry customers are on the line. Therefore, these fast moving scooters treat traffic control devices as mere suggestions to yield. Snow seems to be the only thing hazardous enough to slow these boys down; only sometimes.

65 days and counting.

Ivy trousers.

The Han River Park is a great place for people to enjoy the outdoors within the city. All along the river, from East to West Seoul, bike rental corals thrive off the high demand in spring, summer, and fall. In the winter season, with temperatures averaging below freezing, a hired rental bike is almost a sight unseen. Only the most dedicated trail users brave the cold weather. Such is the example of this family, which never lets the harsh winter weather stop it from taking a leisurely cruise.

66 days and counting.

McChristmas combo.

The forecasted white Christmas turned out only to be a cold Christmas. After a relaxing Christmas day spent calling home and enjoying mimosas, a short walk verified the truth; -7 Celsius is cold. What better way to finish off a cold Christmas indoors than to try out the McDonald's delivery service?

67 days and counting.

Back from the victorian age.

Christmas in Korea is a day when christians spend an extra day in church, and when businesses capitalize on the emerging popularity of the holiday. For the majority of Koreans, Christmas is largely a couple's holiday. Those with significant others are expected to purchase a gift for their sweetheart, at a price which shows the appropriate status of commitment. For many people, cakes have become a traditional Christmas staple; a boon to the coffee shops and bakeries which supply them. On another hand, Christmas is a great time for a business to produce a "Grand Open" special. A cute girl dressed in a cute santa outfit, an all white victorian era mime, and a polaroid to lure unsuspecting customers in for a picture; for example.

68 days and counting.

The men's room.

Asian cultures have the full spectrum of bathroom appliances. In Korea alone, this broad variety can be easily found. While many public restrooms remain equipped with squat style toilets, some restaurants and private homes house western style toilets with bidet systems installed. In the subway station bathrooms, the toilet style is advertised on the stall door. Aside from the opposing extremes of coed toilets, urinals are very common in men's rooms.

69 days and counting.

Bridge.

성산대교 (Seongsan Bridge) is almost exactly 13.1 miles (21 kilometers) from our apartment via the Han River trail. If one were to run from our house, to the bridge, and back, they would complete a full course marathon. I have used this bridge as my turnaround point for many bike rides during my time in Korea. I've seen it above choppy water, glassy water, even solid ice. It's shape and color, both illuminated at night time, and in broad daylight make this my favorite bridge to look at in Seoul.

70 days and counting.

Bow wow.

맛있는 개 (the text on the hat) means, "dog is delicious." In short, I received a package of 맛있는 개 memorabilia from my uncle in America. I had some friends model the items at a coffee shop and captured this natural gaze in our photo shoot.

Dog meat is a controversial industry in Korea, let alone the world. This is partially due to Seoul and Korea emerging on the world's stage, hosting the Olympics and World Cup, and partially due to the westernization of Korea. All practical arguments, for and against, the treatment of dogs as farm animals aside; there is enough support for these establishments to keep them in business. Dog meat is usually served in a soup, and is believed to provide beneficial nutrients to the male libido.

71 days and counting.

Peace dough.

Since rice is, and has been the preferred carbohydrate for the region, Koreans have only recently begun to enjoy baked goods. Their palates are not well adjusted to the sweetness of candy, cookies, and other things sugar. Instead they opt for rice based treats, which can be chewy or dried, and tend to find flavor from added supplements such as mugwort, red bean, and sometimes honey. To provide a unique cultural experience for my students and coworkers--and to make use of the ovens at school--I have incorporated baking into a number of lessons. Cookies have proven to be the best choice for an introduction to baking. Though the most difficult process in the recipe is mixing all the ingredients, the students tend to struggle in any subject involved in keeping the operation clean.

72 days and counting.

The Great River.

Peering over the great Han River during the course of a little more than a year has, in turn, made it seem to be of standard size. In truth, this is a very wide river. Crossing one of the many bridges on foot takes 15 minutes or longer. Looking across, cars passing on the opposite side are mere specs and buildings seem to be small models of their true scale.

73 days and counting.

Clowning around.

It seems the turnover of businesses within the city is high. New restaurants, coffee shops, and cell phone stores spring up regularly, to sit empty, and exchange occupants within months. Due to this phenomenon, there is an industry subsisting on what can only be labeled as, "Grand Open." The facades of newly opened businesses are decorated with balloons, flowers, flags, music, dancing girls, and sometimes clowns on stilts. It's been said, a Korean tradition is to include a pig head in the grand opening ceremony; new patrons, family, and friends can place money in the pig's mouth as a show of support.

74 days and counting. Addendum.

Snow cones 2.

Snow cones 3.

74 days and counting.

Snow cones 1.

So far this year, two snow storms have passed, leaving a small accumulation on the ground. Last year Seoul experienced a storm seen once every hundred years. Overnight, 20 centimeters or more fell on the city. Regardless, most everything opened on time. The store owners, young and old alike, shoveled the snow from the sidewalks into the street; the snowplow then pushed it back onto the sidewalk. This cycle happened for a week before the city trucks finally hauled the snow off to the river.

75 days and counting.

All alone.

This August, while the students were on summer vacation, Geumho Elementary (금호초등학교) underwent a series of significant upgrades. In addition to heating and air conditioning units, and new desks and chairs, the dirt field was converted to astroturf. Surprisingly, the school opted to keep the lone tree, though it stands just inside the sideline of the soccer field. They left a square space around the base of the tree, and dressed the trunk with a thick pad for safety. The field may not be regulation because the tree remains, but at least the tree is content.

76 days and counting.

Afternoon light.

As winter solstice approaches, most daylight hours are spent at school near the 38th parallel. The best glimpses of the rising and setting sun--on most weekdays--are from within the confines of the subway car as it emerges from it's subterranean layer. Most of the Seoul subway system is underground in the city, with the exception of a few stops on the east end of line 2. When the train comes out into the daylight on a clear day near sunset, "ews" and "ahs" can be heard from the usually private passengers, as the haze of the city illuminates in bright oranges and reds.

77 days and counting.

Today's lunch.

Today's lunch: Mixed grains and rice, stinky bean stew, mixed and fried chicken and vegetables, simmered seaweed a.k.a. steamed green beans, and cabbage kimchi. (급식내용: 잡곡밥, 청국장찌개, 닭고기야채볶음, 미역줄기조림, 배추김치.) Approximate value: $1.00 (1,200 Won).

Throughout the first few months in Korea, the lunches cooked at school seemed diverse and delicious. Although I was more than pleased at each meal, my Korean coworkers were always a little disappointed with the menu items. At first, I couldn't really understand why, but after almost 16 months, 5 meals each week, I've become less excited. This is not to say the lunches are bad, they're still nutritious and delicious. The problem is, I've tasted most of the items in restaurants, and have come to expect the same from the school kitchen.

78 days and counting.

Gas control.

Natural gas is widely used in Korea as a source of cooking and heating fuel. Many restaurants have every table hooked to hoses and gas valves which power the barbecue, the burner, or anything else that cooks at the table. Newer restaurants and homes have the pipes, hoses, and fittings concealed in the floors and walls. In older buildings, the pipes are exposed both inside, and outside.

79 days and counting.

Premium STS.

The marketing machine in South Korea employs a very philanthropical practice for its customers. If an item needs to move out the door quicker, it isn't always marked down; instead a complementary item will be added to the offer. This has come to be known as; shit taped to shit, or STS. STS can be as simple as a small milk carton taped to a larger carton, it also seems to have moved its way up the supply chain to include elaborate packaging techniques. This practice is similar to toys in the cereal boxes, but for adults. Even the imported companies have taken notice, as seen here with the Budweiser six pack box. Included in the creative logo shaped packaging is the standard six beers along with a 355ml beer glass.

80 days and counting.

Final view.

Aside from building up, Seoul has a number of satellite cities where the property values are more affordable. As a result of the sprawl, families have had to come up with more efficient methods of managing the deceased. Cremation is a very popular and affordable option, another is stacking the family tombs with multiple residents. Few, if any, graveyards exist with housing for much more than twenty tombs. Most of these tomb sites are located in the mountains just outside the city, where hiking trails cut through or around the mounds. Others can be seen on the sides of highways, or nestled right on the edge of the spreading growth boundary.

81 days and counting. Recalibration part 2.

Where's Juan?

Christmas away from home for a practicing American can either be saddening, or it can be a relief. Regardless, the comfort of traditions will be left back home, leaving the opportunity to inaugurate new and temporary traditions. Over the duration of two Christmas seasons spent abroad, one tradition has matured into its second annual appearance: the secret Santa party. This year's menu included home prepared pasta with delivery pizza and sushi. After the gift exchange, the members partook in a series of games, with a 3,000 won prize to each winner. Just like home.

81 days and counting. Recalibration part 1.

Snow fun.

Lacking due diligence, I made a calculating error and began this project with 99 days left, not 97... To redeem my journalistic credibility, the next two days will be the recalibration period to get things back on the right track.

Jump rope is a very popular activity for elementary school aged children. It teaches coordination and encourages aerobic exercise. The students at Geumho Elementary (금호초등학교) go above and beyond by turning the act of jump rope into an art. With tryouts and regular practices, a team of students is selected to represent the school in competition. Much like a dance team, the jump rope team performs in costume, to the beat of popular music.

81 days and counting.

Candy cane.

Of the people with chosen religions in South Korea, 25% of the population are pronounced Christian, and 25% are Buddhist. The large Christian population seems to have the momentum of the country's youth, and may expand significantly in the coming years. However significant to Christianity, Christmas has not yet reached the broad cultural status in Korea, that it has in America. It seems as though the Koreans who do celebrate, do so at their church, usually focusing mainly on prayer and charity. They don't carry the traditions of stockings, or a christmas tree in the home, and most children don't seem to know what a candy cane is; with the exception of my students. Costco carries the large plastic tubs of miniature candy canes. Guess who just got more popular...

82 days and counting. Addendum.

For Jesus.

Perched crane.

Each day of this project, I spend a few minutes early on brainstorming what to shoot. Usually I plan some type of backup option, in case I don't come across anything worth photographing throughout the day. In most cases thus far, my backup plan has not been employed; though a few times, I've begun uploading my photos with doubts in my mind about the quality of the photos. So far, I've not been terribly disappointed in my performance. I have, instead, found myself on many occasions sifting through three or four photos, and only one can be chosen.

Thus, I've created the addendum. Though not official picks, these are the ones I lost sleep over last night. From time to time, I will find myself losing sleep again--over pictures. In these unfortunate events, I will publish an addendum as a solution to my sleeplessness.

82 days and counting.

Slow creep.

An archeologist friend claims that in 50 years, Seoul will solely consist of apartment buildings. Why would an archeologist have this opinion, and why is it relevant? This individual worked, not in a museum to restore and research artifacts, but as an inspector within the Korean development machine. Due to Korea's long and plentiful history, before a building is constructed, the site must be inspected by a team of archeologists to ensure no important artifacts are buried. As you can see, the sun is setting on the old three story brick apartment building, as the new 30 somethings creep into the limelight.

83 days and counting.

From the abyss.

Living and working abroad exposes an individual to a variety of unique experiences, nonetheless, over time the variation becomes a new norm, and a new type of culture shock appears--the long term kind. To the open-minded traveler, short term culture shock occurs instantaneously and is easily dismissed. Long term culture shock occurs after a significant period of time, when the transplant realizes the honeymoon phase is over. At this juncture, the lifestyle of an alien immigrant switches from vacation to habitual. Simply put, the camera spends more time in the case then out.

In the habitual life of a transplanted English teacher, capturing one photo a day can sometimes be a daunting task--but certainly rewarding. It forces irregularity, creativity, and a diverse perspective on the usual routine. I have run by this mirror up to three times a week for the past 15+ months, and yet it took me this long to stop and watch myself disappear into the accordion reflection.

84 days and counting.

Trenches to trails.

Seoul is one of the most populated cities in the world, even so, there is no shortage of outdoor activities in or around the city. Most mountains in Seoul are far too rocky and steep for adequate mountain biking trails, but Umyeonsan (우면산) is an exception to the rule. Just outside Seoul city limits, this small mountain harbors a handful of ridable--up and down--trails. Hikers and mountain bikers share this mountain; the Korean military plays here too. Only certain areas are accessible to civilians, and these areas are littered with trenches and bordered by razor wire and barbed wire. The sound of gunfire is often ringing in the distance from the practice range, adding to the ambiance. Though war is a horrible thing; when riding here, it's hard not to think back to the elementary school aged war games I use to play with my friends in the backyard.

85 days and counting.

E-Mart.

South Korea is a country with a long history of occupation and war. Shortly after the turn of the 20th century, the Korean peninsula fell under Japanese imperialist rule. Japan's occupation ended as a result of WWII. A few years later, the Korean peninsula found itself, yet again, in a state of turmoil as the North and the South battled in the Korean War. After the armistice brought fighting to a halt in 1953, the capitalistic South Korea (Republic of Korea) put development into fast forward, in an effort to catch up to the modern world.

Today, South Korea is an increasingly powerful force in the global economy and it's citizens enjoy the many comforts of a consumer culture. Children as young as six have their own touch screen cell phones, large flat screen TV's can be found anywhere from classrooms to small restaurants, and a digital SLR camera is slung across every fifth shoulder. E-Mart, once owned by WalMart, is one of a handful of large grocery/department store chains prevalent in South Korea. These stores provide a diverse selection of goods ranging from produce to kimchi refrigerators.

86 days and counting.

The view from the sea.

Korean drinking culture is heavily surrounded by food. Most alcohol consumption begins at dinner with soju, a distilled rice beverage. If there's enough motivation within the group, drinking can carry on to a second, third, and maybe even a fourth location. Typically, as the soju continues to pour, the snacks will also continue to find their way onto the table. One delicious type of anju (안주), to the well adjusted foreigner, is dried anchovies, or myalchi (멸치).

At a favorite eclectic watering hole, called Bar Da, the myalchi is served with peanuts and gochujang (고추장). Bar Da (Bar 다, 바다) is Korean for 'sea'. This establishment is unique to Korea, with its vast selection of distilled spirits, good music, and dive-bar-esq atmosphere. Any homesick Portlander can find solace in a shot of Jameson and some kind of bottled beer at Bar Da.

87 days and counting.

The bridge to more bridges.

In Korean, Han means "great". Cutting right through the heart of Seoul, the Han River (한강) is bustling with life. The north and south banks are lined with elevated freeways and shoreline bike/pedestrian paths; the river is crossed with numerous multi-modal bridges; brightly lit cocktail cruise boats power up and down stream; and military helicopters in transport are a fairly common sight and sound. On the eastern outskirts of Seoul, the signs of eminent domain are evident as a bridge nears completion and farmland will soon make way for more apartment sprawl.

88 days and counting.

The color wheel.

In my final hurrah as an English teacher in Korea, my school challenged me with the task of planning 24 hours worth of material. I was instructed to spend 450,000 won ($420) on materials, and focus mainly on creating an environment where the students can have a chance to feel comfortable with a foreigner and using English. In a nutshell, do whatever, however, whenever. For our first project: the color wheel.