1 day and counting.

Send off.

Over the course of the last month, preparations for our return home has made life complex and, on occasion, stressful. Between all the administrative tasks, farewell meals, and souvenir collection, life had to be packed up into the confines of two bags at 45 kilograms each. Since the accumulation of new clothes, memories, and random accessories far exceeded the standard checked baggage requirements, anything not immediately needed upon returning home had to be mailed via cargo ship post. No matter how many boxes were shipped prior to departure, the task of loading each bag to the required weight was more than daunting. In summary, moving away is less stressful than moving home.

2 days and counting.

Seoul is crying.

Tomorrow marks the final day in Korea. As either a show of emotion, or in hopes of easing our transition to the wet northwest USA, the skies of Seoul rained on the city for 24 hours. The Korean climate is typically dry between the months of September and June, and extremely saturated during the summer months. For those adjusted to northwest USA, rain is associated with cold temperatures, so a coat suffices as warmth and as water protection. In Korea, the wet and hot summers require an alternative means of water protection: umbrellas. Since this is the Korean style, most people don't purchase waterproof coats, and thus need an umbrella even in the unusual winter rain. Furthermore, foreigners in Gore-tex without umbrellas are quite a concerning site to the locals.

3 days and counting.

Good for health.

Aside from kimchi and rice, soup is one of the most typical dishes on a Korean table. Koreans have these three items stored away for convenient eating with or for any meal of the day. It is widely believed that drinking water at a meal impedes good digestion, so instead people wash food down with soup broth. There are many types of soup on the Korean menu, the most coming being; 죽 (juk), 탕 (tang), 국 (guk), and 찌개 (jjigae). Cook time, thickness, and ingredients all factor into the different types of soup. Each variety is more than likely, "good for health."

4 days and counting.

Check please.

As the final day in Korea approaches, each evening's encounter becomes a sad realization to an inevitable change. Throughout a year and a half, friends and acquaintances accumulate, and a final goodbye for each of them is hard to conceive. Realistically, after the transition back home, many of the people left behind will be thought of from time to time, but not contacted. Only the most unique and personal relationships will stand the test of time and space. For these, there is always a hope of a future; for the others, there is only the reality of the situation.

5 days and counting.

Ad carpet.

In some of the popular night life areas, there is high competition between night clubs, bars, and restaurants. To help attract business, one popular ad strategy is to offer some kind of special, then guerrilla market all through the neighborhood using flyers and posters. Many times these posters cover entire walls in repetition, sometimes even the street is open for advertising. The posters on the asphalt are the most temporary of all; the rug may be ripped on one end, and still being installed on the other. By the end of the night, there may not be even one fully intact poster, just a bunch of trampled paper.

6 days and counting.

A well rounded dessert.

The cafe culture in Korea is bustling with gourmet and delicious varieties. Although many Korean people avoid coffee in the morning, many treat themselves coffee and dessert as a continuation to a dinner date. The menus offer pastries and ice cream, but the ultimate option is a deluxe waffle topped with ice cream, fruit, and other goodies.

7 days and counting. Addendum.

Selection.

Warm cold blooded flesh.

7 days and counting.

...eat as much as you wish.

With water surrounding all but one border of South Korea, fresh seafood is never far away. Often, restaurants maintain aquariums full of a selection of live creatures, to be prepared for the freshest consumption. There are also numerous fish markets throughout the country. The fish markets are trading places for both commercial and retail transactions. In Seoul, the 노량진수산시장 (Noryangjin Fishery Wholesale) is the main fish market. Here, many vendors offer a wide selection of seafood, from shellfish to octopus. These vendors will provide a somewhat negotiable price for an animal, then kill it, and have it sent to one of the many restaurants nearby. The restaurants charge a low fee for serving the 회 (raw fish), and offer beverages, side dishes, and can prepare 매운탕 (a fish based stew) with the head and tail of the fish.

8 days and counting.

Holding strong.

The hyper development mentality ingrained in the modern Republic of Korea has been fruitful for the country's infrastructure. Throughout the last 50 years of modernization though, a few tragedies have taught important lessons in regulation. One such tragedy was the collapse of the 성수대교 (Seongsu Bridge), which claimed 32 lives on one morning rush hour in 1994, when a piece of the bridge fell into the river below. As a result of the bridge failure, the full structure needed to be replaced. In other parts of Seoul, buildings have been condemned, due to similar faults in design and construction. In both of these instances, faults are often attributed to lax governmental oversight teemed with increased pressure to build quickly and efficiently.

9 days and counting.

Savior.

In the epicenter of Seoul is the famous shopping neighborhood, 명동 (Myeong Dong), which represents the picturesque version of bright lights, big crowds, and shopping. This area hosts a wide variety of merchandise to wander through; from department stores to designer imitations. Many tourists and Koreans alike come to 명동, even if only to witness the spectacle and enjoy people watching. When wondering through these streets, it's hard not to brush shoulders and bump around in the high human density. Among the crowds, religious activists can be found darning multi-lingual statements and professing the need for religion through personal public address systems.

10 days and counting.

The DIY tradition.

Many traditional Korean meals are designed for family style consumption and are often cooked at the table by the customer. Although this approach inefficiently requires a burner, stove, or barbecue at each table, the experience could not be matched in a kitchen with a chef. The smell of meat and vegetables cooking right under your nose, the endless warmth of the heat source, and the food tailored to perfection all contribute to a unique experience of bonding with food and people. When everyone at the table orders their own plate, there is an overbearing sense of individualism and entitlement; when everyone at the table helps in the preparation and sharing of the food, an unexplained feeling of unity prevails.

11 days and counting.

Creative utilization part 2.

In order to experience the most comfort in compact living, it is important to consider the value of each amenity and the real estate it consumes. Often, with creative thinking, furniture can serve multiple necessary functions, which in effect doubles or triples its value in the to real estate-to-function formula. A foldable table can also serve as a foldable entertainment center; a foldable chair can also serve as a foldable ottoman; a bed can also serve as a couch; a bookshelf can also serve as a dresser.

12 days and counting.

3 차.

In the Korean culture of professionalism, it is important to work long hours and entertain your boss when he or she wants to drink. It is customary for a group of employees to have at least one dinner together in a year; this is called 회식 (hwey shik). Even public schools reserve some budget to entertain the staff. Typically these dinners will continue into a second or third establishment, for more drinking and snacking. The second is called 2 차 (e cha), the third is called 3 차 (sam cha), and so on. For men, these evenings can push the boundaries of an individual's alcohol tolerance; everyone is expected to match their superior's consumption of soju and beer. In most cases, the seasoned drinkers are the bosses, so the young men find themselves "drunken".

13 days and counting.

Hotrods and hotties.

Graffiti is not a popular menace in Seoul as it is in many other big cities. There aren't many train cars, tunnels, or walls plastered with tags. Instead, graffiti is displayed in a few token places where the medium is more likely welcomed than not. It is unclear why the graffiti trend isn't as apparent; perhaps access to spray paint is too restricted; perhaps there are fewer vandalism prone youth; perhaps middle school and high school aged children are more focused on tests; or perhaps there is such a strong national pride which trumps any desire to deface public spaces.

14 days and counting.

Fan death.

Eastern or oriental medicine has a long standing reputation of healing ailments and saving lives for centuries. Modern western medicine has a short history, but has made great strides through scientific development. In asia, modern medicine is largely practiced, but is in competition or in concert with the traditional eastern medical treatments. In the west, many oriental medicinal practices and beliefs are considered voodoo and unscientific. With these considerations in mind, Korean people employ different day-to-day preventative methods, which seem strange to western people. Some include: opening all the windows for fresh air when the outside temperature is significantly below freezing; self medicating through kimchi consumption; wearing magnetic protective aprons while pregnant at the computer; wearing indoor shoes; not physically touching any food; and avoiding fan death. Fans are thought dangerous during sleep, because they can potentially force enough oxygen away from those sleeping to cause suffocation.

15 days and counting.

I'm high on Valentine.

The most important status in Korea is the relationship status. Young single people spend their time wishing and waiting for their perfect couple. For this reason, the 14th of each month is reserved as a celebration for those with couple status. The most obvious day--perhaps the origin of the number 14--is Valentine's day. On this day, the Korean women is expected to give her boyfriend something special. March 14th is White Day, which is the same as Valentine's Day, except the men are responsible for the surprises. Other days include Music Day, Silver Day, Kiss Day, and Wine Day

16 days and counting.

If War of the Worlds really happened...

The history of the Jongno Tower (a.k.a. 삼성증권 - Samsung Securities Building) told by foreigners is just as unique as the building's architecture. The fable claims the building to have been built by two separate architects at two separate times. The buildings inside the space were built first by one person, then years later another architect designed the three posts and top piece of the structure. Either way, the complex looks like a building surrounded by a giant pizza box support.

17 days and counting.

Taken.

Marriage is arguably the most significant moment in the life of a Korean person; it is a point at which many changes occur. Typically, children in nuclear Korean families graduate college and find careers, all while living under their parent's roof. Once married, the couple will leave the nest, and begin residing in their new apartment. At this time, they will begin the process of procreation, if they so choose.

The typical, nondenominational wedding occurs in a wedding hall. These halls are permanently decorated and staffed to facilitate sometimes three or more weddings per day. As with traditional western weddings, the Korean wedding is a coordinated performance which publicly commits two lives to monogamy. Nonetheless, there are a few small differences: all guests are expected to bring gifts in the form of money, partially to compensate for the cost of attending; from the pre-wedding pictures to the end of the ceremony, the bride may wear as many as five different dresses; the only outfit the bride keeps forever is the Hanbok (traditional Korean clothes) she wears at the end; and last but not least, an average Korean wedding lasts a little more than two hours, from the ceremony to the end of the meal.

17 days and counting. Addendum.

Being taken.

Bow to me.

It's all just a big photo op.

18 days and counting.

"Beep."

The price of a standard fare on the subway is 900 Won ($.80), for each zone beyond the basic distance, the fare raises 100 Won. For a single use ticket, the customer must pay in advance, selecting the beginning and ending station. For those with T-Money cards (prepaid balance), the turnstile takes the standard fare when entering, and deducts the extra charge upon leaving the ending station. For anyone riding the subway for more than a few days, the T-Money card is a convenient option. The cards or phone charms are 5,000 Won, and allow the customer to bypass the purchase of a single use ticket each time. T-Money can be used in a number of other places including convenience stores.

19 days and counting.

Burn one down.

Barrel fires are a common site in the industrial areas of Seoul. Mostly found in the lots reserved for material recovery, the fires burn for warmth on the cold winter days. In some cases, the fires also act as a waste reduction strategy for the businesses. Instead of paying to dispose of the wood scraps from broken pallets, a burn barrel effectively turns the wood into ash, while simultaneously contributing to the air quality issues. In many cases, a burn barrel can be detected by smell before it is seen; if not for the common scent of combusting wood, then for the common scent of combusting chemical soaked wood.

20 days and counting.

New old growth.

Once the site of a horse racing track, the small peninsula which hosts Seoul Forest is now one of the largest green spaces in Seoul. Until recently, the neighborhood surrounding the park consisted of mainly three and four story apartment buildings, which was once the common dwelling in the city. Naturally, the inception of Seoul Forest increased property values and demand in the vicinity. As a result, over the past year, two significant changes to the skyline have grown into view next to the park; luxury apartments. These behemouths are visible from halfway across the city, because there are no competing structures, and the river provides an obstructionless view. It's easy to imagine the view from the top is stunning.

21 days and counting. Addendum.

Wider.

Widest.

Infinity.

21 days and counting.

Artificial stream.

On a clear and not too cold late winter evening, a great place to see the vast expanse of Seoul is from Namsan (남산, Nam Mountain, South Mountain, etc.). The early evening traffic is easily visible by the endless streams of headlights and taillights winding through the landscape of urban illumination. Well known for Seoul Tower, a tourist destination perched on top, Namsan is geographically centered in the city. Within the Namsan park, there are many hiking trails, walking paths, and only one road open only to buses and taxis. A 360 degree view of Seoul is available in a short trip up, down, and around this mountain.

22 days and counting. Addendum.

Ready to roll.

22 days and counting.

Could this be your grandma?

In Korean cities, it seems all recycling collection from apartments is done by the elderly. The typical process involves methodical sorting of materials into one or more rickshaw-like carts. The materials are hauled to nearby material recovery facilities, where they are sorted into large piles and sold by weight. It's difficult to imagine much prosperity in such an occupation; it's even more difficult to imagine why this task seems left up to the functioning elderly. Society has put these people into a situation of need, and considering their skill sets, age, and physical abilities, there are probably not many high paying jobs available to them. Some claim this to be a product of a changing familial trend in Korea. Traditionally, the eldest son is responsible for the care taking of his parents, living with them through their last years. Systematically, this is a problem if there are no children, or the eldest son lacks means to handle such a responsibility. It could also be a product of gentrification from the rapid expansion of Seoul, leaving manual laborers out of work. Or, maybe these individuals believe idle hands do the devil's work.

23 days and counting.

A short history.

Once unencumbered by the Korean War, the Republic of Korea faced a new challenge; modernization. The Japanese occupation prior to the war, and the war itself, destroyed the existing infrastructure and hindered economic advancement. Therefore, after the armistice began in 1953, the country began a full fledged effort to reconstruct and modernize. Today, South Korea is rapidly advancing as a major economic influence on the world's stage, which provides an opportunity to showcase modern examples of effective infrastructure.

One shining example is the 청계천 (Cheonggyecheon) stream renovation which replaced a major arterial freeway with a green space. After the war, the stream was covered in cement to manage overpopulation; twenty years later, an elevated freeway was constructed above the then cement covered stream; thirty years later--in 2003--the city removed the freeway, artificially restored the stream, and created the green space which remains today.

24 days and counting.

Line 2.

In comparison to most big cities, the subway system in Seoul stands above par for the course. The trains are always on time, easy to use, usually run on a frequency no greater than five minutes, easily reach most parts of the city within two transfers, and are very clean. Considering all the facets of seamlessly running such a large subway system, it's hard to imagine how an organization can operate so consistently. Nonetheless, those in charge of the subway system successfully keep it running, while at rates between 900 and 1,300 Won ($0.80 - $1.20) per ride.

25 days and counting.

Cigarettes are usually not sexy.

Unlike many western countries, smoking is still very popular in Korea; especially among young men. It is said most male smokers begin during their mandatory military service, which is a very stressful rite of passage. In this time, the smokers outnumber the non-smokers, so it's thought unpopular to be a non-smoker. Even in the workplace, the non-smokers lose an extra opportunity to network with coworkers during smoke breaks. Cigarettes are extremely cheap in Korea, selling around 2,000 or 3,000 Won ($2.00 - 3.00) a pack. Most restaurants and bars allow smoking, and the patrons usually oblige. Yet, in a culture so open and supportive of smoking, women are expected not to smoke. The standard is slowly fading, and more companies are marketing products to the female population; but the gender disparity remains.

26 days and counting.

Ringing in the rabbit.

New Years Eve and New Years Day are modern holidays celebrating the end of one year and beginning of another. In Korea, 설날 (Seolnal) is the traditional version of the same thing. Before implementing the Gregorian calendar, societies worldwide relied on a simpler measurement of time; the moon cycles. Generations of Koreans gather to celebrate the Lunar New Year by preparing food, giving gifts, and sometimes dressing in 한복 (Hanbok) traditional Korean clothes.

27 days and counting. Addendum.

The headwaters.

Most wastewater treatment outlets are cement washes, appearing as tributaries to the larger bodies of water. This outlet is by far the most unique I've seen in Seoul. In the rainy summer months, the higher water level most likely submerges any evidence of this outlet. During the winter, the outlet seems more like a burst water main. This water is headed downstream to greet the urban fishermen.

27 days and counting.

Cherry picking.

An uncommon sight is a Korean recreational fisherman with only one line in the water; most have a lean- to of four or five poles on a tripod. The fishermen seem to spend the winters indoors, only coming out during the occasional winter heat wave. For those fishing along the Han River, the winter layer of ice makes it impossible. For those working the steaming tributaries, the deterrent is most likely frigid temperatures. People like to believe this recreation is catch and release, because the urban waterways are certainly not the cleanest sources of dinner. It's hard to believe all urban fishers are releasing when some have their catches floating on a chain of hooks beside them.

28 days and counting.

The good kind.

According to the Gregorian calendar, the new year has begun; according to the moon, the new year begins on Thursday. For practical purposes, Korean society operates according to the Gregorian calendar, but 설날 (Seolnal) is still celebrated throughout the country, and many other parts of Asia. The gift giving tradition in Korean society is strong, especially during holidays like 설날 and 추석 (Chuseok). The tradition of giving may have originated with simple homemade or farmed goods for family and neighbors. However, for modern Korea, the gifts have become commercialized, most commonly presented in the form of gift sets. Many consumables are specially packaged into sets; from hygiene products, to produce, to liquor, to dried fish. Among the top sellers are SPAM and Korean ginseng.