23 days and counting.

A short history.

Once unencumbered by the Korean War, the Republic of Korea faced a new challenge; modernization. The Japanese occupation prior to the war, and the war itself, destroyed the existing infrastructure and hindered economic advancement. Therefore, after the armistice began in 1953, the country began a full fledged effort to reconstruct and modernize. Today, South Korea is rapidly advancing as a major economic influence on the world's stage, which provides an opportunity to showcase modern examples of effective infrastructure.

One shining example is the 청계천 (Cheonggyecheon) stream renovation which replaced a major arterial freeway with a green space. After the war, the stream was covered in cement to manage overpopulation; twenty years later, an elevated freeway was constructed above the then cement covered stream; thirty years later--in 2003--the city removed the freeway, artificially restored the stream, and created the green space which remains today.

24 days and counting.

Line 2.

In comparison to most big cities, the subway system in Seoul stands above par for the course. The trains are always on time, easy to use, usually run on a frequency no greater than five minutes, easily reach most parts of the city within two transfers, and are very clean. Considering all the facets of seamlessly running such a large subway system, it's hard to imagine how an organization can operate so consistently. Nonetheless, those in charge of the subway system successfully keep it running, while at rates between 900 and 1,300 Won ($0.80 - $1.20) per ride.

25 days and counting.

Cigarettes are usually not sexy.

Unlike many western countries, smoking is still very popular in Korea; especially among young men. It is said most male smokers begin during their mandatory military service, which is a very stressful rite of passage. In this time, the smokers outnumber the non-smokers, so it's thought unpopular to be a non-smoker. Even in the workplace, the non-smokers lose an extra opportunity to network with coworkers during smoke breaks. Cigarettes are extremely cheap in Korea, selling around 2,000 or 3,000 Won ($2.00 - 3.00) a pack. Most restaurants and bars allow smoking, and the patrons usually oblige. Yet, in a culture so open and supportive of smoking, women are expected not to smoke. The standard is slowly fading, and more companies are marketing products to the female population; but the gender disparity remains.

26 days and counting.

Ringing in the rabbit.

New Years Eve and New Years Day are modern holidays celebrating the end of one year and beginning of another. In Korea, 설날 (Seolnal) is the traditional version of the same thing. Before implementing the Gregorian calendar, societies worldwide relied on a simpler measurement of time; the moon cycles. Generations of Koreans gather to celebrate the Lunar New Year by preparing food, giving gifts, and sometimes dressing in 한복 (Hanbok) traditional Korean clothes.

27 days and counting. Addendum.

The headwaters.

Most wastewater treatment outlets are cement washes, appearing as tributaries to the larger bodies of water. This outlet is by far the most unique I've seen in Seoul. In the rainy summer months, the higher water level most likely submerges any evidence of this outlet. During the winter, the outlet seems more like a burst water main. This water is headed downstream to greet the urban fishermen.

27 days and counting.

Cherry picking.

An uncommon sight is a Korean recreational fisherman with only one line in the water; most have a lean- to of four or five poles on a tripod. The fishermen seem to spend the winters indoors, only coming out during the occasional winter heat wave. For those fishing along the Han River, the winter layer of ice makes it impossible. For those working the steaming tributaries, the deterrent is most likely frigid temperatures. People like to believe this recreation is catch and release, because the urban waterways are certainly not the cleanest sources of dinner. It's hard to believe all urban fishers are releasing when some have their catches floating on a chain of hooks beside them.

28 days and counting.

The good kind.

According to the Gregorian calendar, the new year has begun; according to the moon, the new year begins on Thursday. For practical purposes, Korean society operates according to the Gregorian calendar, but 설날 (Seolnal) is still celebrated throughout the country, and many other parts of Asia. The gift giving tradition in Korean society is strong, especially during holidays like 설날 and 추석 (Chuseok). The tradition of giving may have originated with simple homemade or farmed goods for family and neighbors. However, for modern Korea, the gifts have become commercialized, most commonly presented in the form of gift sets. Many consumables are specially packaged into sets; from hygiene products, to produce, to liquor, to dried fish. Among the top sellers are SPAM and Korean ginseng.